One of the most common complaints on a dryer is that it is no longer heating. There are several reasons and we’ll explore some of the most common below. First we will discuss the parts that can fail which would cause a no heat complaint. Note that we are using a common, basic dryer for this example.
Components located on the back of the dryer
Your heater can short to the cavity of the dryer or literally break in 2
This is a safety fuse located on the heater housing. It is a one time use fuse. When it blows the dryer will turn on, but it will not heat.
This is a thermostat located on the heater housing. It is suppose to open and close when it reaches certain temperatures to prevent the dryer from overheating.
This is the main operating thermostat for your dryer. Its main purpose is to regulate the temperature inside the dryer.
This is another safety fuse located on the blower housing. This is a one time use fuse, when it blows the dryer will not start at all.
Dryer Power Supply Connection
Your power cord is attached to the dryer using a terminal block like the picture to the left. If the connection is loose then over time it can burn up and lose power.
When the incorrect screws are used to connect the power cord, or the screws are not tightened all the way, eventually it will generate enough heat and burn up the connections. When this happens you will usually need to replace the cord, terminal block, and redo some wiring.
Your dryers mechanical timer is the primary source of user input. Your dryer should have a timer chart located behind the back panel which will instruct you how to test your specific timer. If all other components check out, then this is your likely problem.
Newer dryers have replaced the timer for a control board. The same concept still stands true, it is the primary source of user input. If all other compents check out, than the control board is the likely suspect.
If you don’t have a multimeter then testing these parts is just a guessing game. The easiest way to test is to check continuity of each of the fuses/heating element. If you turn the multimeter to the OHMs setting, you will be able to put your leads onto each terminal and if the multimeter beeps then you know it has continuity (meaning it is good).
There are of course extraneous scenerios where further testing is necessary, but 99% of the time this is sufficient.