Every type of washer works on the same principle, however top loads vs front loads fail in slightly different ways. We’ll specifically be talking about top load washers in this article.
Not Starting
If your washer is doing absolutely nothing there are only a handful of things it could be. Below are a list of potential problems.
The first step is to always check incoming power. If you have a multimeter or outlet tester then checking the outlet is simple. If you don’t, then try plugging the washer up to another receptacle to eliminate incoming power as the problem.
If you have good incoming power, then your problem may be a bad timer or control board. Every washer has different parts and tech specs, there should be a tech sheet or timer chart located behind the panel that will give you specific details on how to test your timer/control panel.
A fault lid lock will affect washers in different ways. On the older style washers, a defective lid lock usually only impacts draining/spinning the water out, it may still fill up with water. On the new styles, if the lid is not able to lock, than it will not start the cycle at all. If your washer has a control, then there will be a diagnostic test for the lid lock located in the tech sheet. If your washer has a timer, than you should be able to do a continuity test on the lid lock to determine if it is good or bad.
The newer style washers have an actuator on the bottom of the washer by the rotor. If this actuator is not able to properly shift from spin mode to agitate mode then the washer may not be able to start at all. Broken actuators need to be changed and cannot usually be repaired.
Modern washers have mechanisms in place to monitor the level of the water in the tub. If your washer is not draining because of a bad drain pump or clog, then it will not start the cycle.
Not Agitating
If your washer is turning on and has power but it fails to agitate, then check the following items first.
If the agitator splines are stripped then the agitator will not rotate. Usually this results in a loud noise.
If you have good incoming power, then your problem may be a bad timer or control board. Every washer has different parts and tech specs, there should be a tech sheet or timer chart located behind the panel that will give you specific details on how to test your timer/control panel.
A fault lid lock will affect washers in different ways. On the older style washers, a defective lid lock usually only impacts draining/spinning the water out, it may still fill up with water. On the new styles, if the lid is not able to lock, than it will not start the cycle at all. If your washer has a control, then there will be a diagnostic test for the lid lock located in the tech sheet. If your washer has a timer, than you should be able to do a continuity test on the lid lock to determine if it is good or bad.
The newer style washers have an actuator on the bottom of the washer by the rotor. If this actuator is not able to properly shift from spin mode to agitate mode then the washer may not be able to agitate.
Depending on the style of washer you have, you could have a bad gearcase/transmission/motor. These parts fail in various ways, but usually the gears strip internally and they will start becoming very loud. Eventually, they will prevent the washer from agitating or spinning and can start to leak.
Very Loud During Operation
If your washer is making an unusual or loud noise, than something is definitely wrong with it. If left unchecked the problem will become worse.
If the washer sounds like it is making a knocking noise (as if an uneven load) there are a few likely explanations. The most common are:
- The leveling legs are no longer level. You’ll want to adjust these legs or add shims to make the washer level if the legs are broken.
- Bad suspension rods. Most washers nowadays have 4 suspension rods that hold the tub up off the ground. It is very common for one or more of these rods to go bad causing the washer to constantly stay out of balance. You’ll want to chnage them as a set if they’re bad.
- Not draining. If the washer is not draining the water fast enough, it will cause an uneven load and thus make the knocking noise. You’ll want to figure out why the washer isn’t draining and correct the problem.
Over time the seal around the gearcase shaft can leak and rust out the internal tub bearing and gearcase. When this happens you’ll hear a very loud roaring noise. Eventually this will prevent the washer from spinning and will most likely error out the controls operating system.
Over time your washers drain pump can become noisier than normal. If your drain pump starts to become noisy it is an indicator that it may fail soon or you may have something inside the drain pump housing.
Washer is Leaking
As soon as you see water around your washer you need to identify the source. A leaking washer has the potential to flood your house if left unchecked.
The most common leaking component on a washer is the water inlet valve. This is the part that your washer hoses are connected to. You should always check this part first.
Your washer has various internal hoses. Any one of these hoses can spring a leak. You’ll want to pull the cavity/top off so you can see all of the hoses and replace the ones that are leaking.
Drain pumps do a lot of the heavy lifting in your washer. If you get debris inside the drain pump housing, this could cause it to start leaking. Drain pumps also have gaskets that can leak due to normal wear and tear.
When you suspect your washer is leaking it is important to check the plumbing in the back. If you see water coming from the wall (where the drain hose is), then you’ll want to call a plumber because you have a clogged drain pipe.
If you are unable to solve the problem on your own, feel free to call and schedule a service call!